FAQs

Two coats are always recommended, applying the second coat perpendicular to the first coat.

H&C Concrete Sealer Solid Color Solvent-Based Sealer will perform the best for vehicular traffic.

You have a couple options if you want to achieve the solid color look.  You can use H&C Concrete Sealer Solid Color Solvent-Based or H&C Concrete Stain Solid Color Water-Based.

1. In most cases moisture is the cause of bubbling of a solid color concrete stain or sealer. Always allow 24 hours of dry weather after rain before application.
2. Sometimes over application of solvent-based products can cause bubbling as well. Two thin coats are ideal versus one thick coat.
3. If the concrete is too hot at the time of application this can cause bubbling too. Do not apply if the surface temperature is over 100°F.

For solvent based products, sand with a medium grit paper to knock down the bubbles (do not clean off sanding dust) then roll out a thin coat of xylene to re-wet the material. For water based products, sand using a medium grip (clean off sanding dust) then apply a new coat to cover the damaged areas.

Simply performing the water-test: Sprinkle water in a few places to see if it beads. If the water beads there is some kind of sealer on your surface that should be removed. If the water penetrates into the concrete then you have a porous, bare surface. Please keep in mind that some concrete is finished to a very smooth dense troweled finish and may exhibit signs like there is a sealer present due to the non porosity of the surface.

Both products may be applied over our solid color stains/sealers or on bare concrete. The Wet Look Sealer is water-based and the Concrete Sealer Clear Gloss is oil/solvent-based. Mixing the two can result in product and or project failure. Water-based clears should be used with water-based solid stains and solvent-based clears over solvent-based solid sealers only. Water or solvent-based clear sealers can be used over H&C Decorative Stains & Dyes.

Any clear coat can go over the top of Infusion Reactive Acid Stain as long as the stain has been neutralized and the residue has been removed. Infusion offers a water-based and solvent-based clear topcoat as well as a floor finish for interior projects. While Infusion Sealers are the preferred method, other H&C sealers may be used.  For heavy traffic interior surfaces, our High Performance Industrial clear would be an excellent choice.

While the Industrial Floor Finish may be applied by brush, roller, or lambs wool applicator, the best method is to apply with a synthetic cotton-rayon mop.  This applicator maximizes even coverage of material and produces a highly consistent sheen build.

Concrete Stain Water-Based Clear

No higher than 12% moisture content

This is more than likely a result of moisture trapped underneath the sealer or if the clear coat was water based, this could be due to a heavy application.

You must wait 28 days after the concrete is poured.  Although the concrete looks and feels ready to coat, it needs to “cure” and any coatings put down prematurely will most likely fail in one way, shape or form.  H&C Clear Gloss can be used over freshly placed concrete as a cure and seal product.  It complies with ASTM C309 Standard Specification for liquid membrane-forming compounds for curing concrete.

Solvent-based sealers tend to make the colors beneath them much bolder, darker and deeper.  While the water-based sealers will not have that same effect on the colors final appearance.  This is why it is so crucial to do a sample test area with the sealer to be sure the customer approves the final color and appearance.

Yes, this product is designed for vehicular traffic.

Yes, this product is designed to withstand freeze thaw conditions.

Yes, all stains will work with Heavy Traffic Resurfacer.

Maximum thickness in a single placement is 1/8″.

Yes.

No, Heavy Traffic Resurfacer is a single component mix requiring only water to be added.

No, acid etching will take away from the reaction of the acid stain which could result in less color penetration. There is vast difference between acid etching and staining.

No.

Polished concrete yields a highly durable low maintenance substrate without the possibility of peeling or delamination of a coating.

Polished concrete gets its durability two ways, first a chemical reaction between the silica in the densifier/hardener and the Calcium Hydroxide in the concrete substrate. Secondly, the use of polishing equipment and high quality diamond imbedded resin pads create a smooth, hard non-porous surface.

No, densifiers can be used on any old or new porous concrete surfaces. Clear Liquid Hardener & Densifier is the most cost effective product on the market.  It cost less per square foot to use than the least expensive densifier on the market.  This is true because of our higher coverage rate, lower labor cost, and no disposal cost.

The concrete has to be clean and free of any old coatings or sealers and porous. A dime size water drop should take 10-20 seconds to absorb into the surface. Polymer modified products such as self leveling floors do not benefit as much from the use of densifiers.

There are a couple of ways to determine if it is polymer modified.  Polymer modified products dent fairly easily, they are also water soluble and dust.

This really depends on the process and use of the floor. If Lithium Protective Finish is used in the process the maintenance would be scrubbing often with red pads on a scrubbing machine, using a neutral PH cleaner that does not contain butyls, ammonia, or citric acids.  Burnishing with a high speed machine periodically.  Re-apply the Lithium Protective Finish as needed based on wear.

Silica’s and silicates cause permanent reactions inside the concrete to harden and close the pores of the concrete.  The silicanates do the same thing but are much larger in size. The silica molecule is much smaller and the ability to penetrate is not hampered by the interfering ions of Na, K or Li.   Most products on the market are a mixture of the 2-3 of the above chemistries.  The Clear Liquid Hardener & Densifier has higher concentrations of silica molecules ready to react and penetrate than the other chemistries available from competitors.

With the Clear Liquid Hardener & Densifier there may be some dust residue after the surface completely dries.  This is just silica dust and can be vacuumed or scrubbed up and disposed of as prescribed in your area.  It is not a hazardous material and the ph is not of a dangerous level.

This will depend on the process being done on the floor later in the construction or what the end use of the slab will be. Some densifiers can be applied at time of placement where others see problems and need to wait for at least the 3 days to cure. If polishing is planned for a new slab you will want to wait until during the polishing phase to use a densifier.

No. It is not a film forming membrane.

Yes.  If water will penetrate into the slab then it can be hardened.  If you are going to grind the floor aggressively then you may not need to strip the sealer prior to grinding.

Densifiying will help solve this problem, but the floor will need to be examined to make sure that there isn’t a larger issue such as carbonation with the slab before knowing if just hardening the floor will fully treat the problem. Our products can eliminate some dusting by making the concrete harder and less prone to abrasion.  Much of the dusting we see is actually environmental dirt that falls on the surface from tires, product, and air circulation.  Sealers help make substrates easier to clean from this kind of dirt.

The densifier has a slight odor, but it should be minimal to the average user. The Lithium Protective Finish does have a stronger smell, but less so than a solvent.

No, but contaminating vegetation or soils should be avoided.

This depends greatly on the surface preparation and type of concrete.  It can be anywhere from 3mm-12mm.

If applied correctly, one application is actually more beneficial than multiple applications of thinner coverage.  If you allow the densifier to dry out you have caused the reaction and subsequent coats will no longer penetrate as deeply or evenly as the initial application has the opportunity to do.  You should keep the surface wet with product for 20-30 minutes, applying more products to areas as needed or using a broom or mop to keep the product evenly distributed.

You can use an Acetone Dye Stain, Infusion Acid Stain or Semi-Transparent Stain when using the Hardener.  Unlike other materials it does not have the tendency to lift the dyes out of the concrete.  It also does not change the color of the concrete so it does not change the color of the stained floor. H&C Acetone Dye Stain is recommended when adding color for polished concrete applications.

Typically color is added in the middle of the polishing process and is always added prior to the application of H&C Clear Liquid Hardener and Densifier. The best time to add color and densifier is before your last 3 polish resin diamond passes.

No.  H&C’s Clear Liquid Hardener & Densifier does not build a film or affect the surface of the slab.  Unlike other concrete hardeners, H&C Clear Concrete Hardener does not produce sodium hydroxide so it will not cause coating failures.

No, but it will not contribute to ASR.

No.  Clear Liquid Hardener & Densifier does not contain sodium or potassium and does not increase the alkalinity of the slab or contribute to ASR.  It will not contribute to surface sweating syndrome.

No.  You can cut some time off of the clock by grinding your next step while the Concrete Hardener is still wet on the floor.  You may want to check to make sure that your diamonds can be run wet.  The additional heat will accelerate the chemical reaction and helps to seal the floor.

Keep the product wet for 30 minutes. Then start grinding.

Yes.  Do not allow the floor to react more than 24 hours before you grind it again.  It can become too hard to cut.

H&C Lithium Protective Finish is used as the final step for protection in a polished concrete system. While the floor after densifying is moisture resistant, it is not chemical resistant and requires the use of a protective sealer. By applying at least two coats of finish and burnishing each coat, it will fill the voids to chemically protect the floor from oil, grease, dirt, etc.

If polishing, without the Lithium Protective Finish on the floor you are leaving the concrete open.  Spills will most likely stain or etch the concrete instantly, where with the Lithium Protective Finish there is a window of time to clean most spills or contaminants up.  The Lithium Protective Finish also conditions and hardens the floor to help protect the wear layer and extend the life.

H&C recommends Sharkgrip Slip Resistant Additive for all surfaces where slipping is a concern.  Pool decks and garage floors are especially susceptible to slipping.  Simply stir Sharkgrip Slip Resistant Additive to any sealer or stain, it stays suspended in the coating, but occasional stirring is recommended.  SharkGrip may make a gloss finish a bit duller, so keep that in mind.  Shield-Crete kits have a packet of anti-slip aggregate included; simply stir this into the mixture once the two components have been combined.

Use H&C Cleaner Degreaser to remove grease and oil stains.  It will increase the coating’s ability to bond with the surface by providing a clean substrate.

Use H&C Etching Solution to open the pores of the concrete so that H&C Stains and Sealers can bond properly with the substrate.

It is always best to read the H&C product data page for surface preparation instructions.

Garage floors are just the beginning! Shield-Crete works great for basement floors, laundry room floors, commercial floors, warehouse floors, storage areas, covered patios and landings. It can be used in some full outdoor applications, however, the sun’s UV rays may diminish the gloss finish, as well fade the color over time.

Yes. Construction dust, dry wall paste and paint splatters can affect the bond. Scrape foreign substances off the floor and then clean the floor with the degreaser/cleaner. Wire brushing or sanding may be needed for severe contamination.

Because Shield-Crete is a water-based epoxy, it can be applied 28 days after the concrete is poured, however, the longer you can wait to let the concrete cure, the better your results will be.

Absolutely. Of course, how well it works depends upon how well you prepare your concrete.

Yes. When applied over a previous coating, Shield-Crete is only as good as what it is applied over. If the coating fails, it will take the Shield-Crete off with it. Also, Shield-Crete is a water-based product that breathes. The old coatings probably are not. Leaving them on could cause failure due to entrapment of moisture vapor in the concrete.

Yes. Tires contain chemicals that leach into the concrete over time. If too much of these foreign substances are trapped in the concrete, Shield-Crete will adhere to them and will not stick to the concrete. These areas should be scrubbed with a wire brush and the degreaser/cleaner, rinsed thoroughly and sanded with a rough sanding pad.

If a floor is highly troweled and almost shiny then etching is necessary. Epoxies need to “bite” into the surface. If the surface is not porous the epoxy may then start to peel. Chemicals and paraffin from tires can leave a waxy film on garage floors over time which creates non-porous surfaces which may require at least one sanding.

The easiest test is to sprinkle water on the questionable areas of your floor. If the water beads, you have a foreign substance that must be removed.

Yes. Special surface preparation is not needed if the additional coats are applied within five days. If it has been a longer period, the area should be sanded lightly to dull the finish and create a rougher surface to which the Shield-Crete can adhere. In most cases, one coat of Shield-Crete is sufficient to produce great coverage and a rich finish. In some cases, where the concrete is exceptionally rough or old, two coats will provide a stronger, deeper finish. We always recommend two coats for dark colors, such as red. Second coats can be applied as soon as the surface is dry to the touch and not tacky.

Any coated surface, especially a high quality, smooth surface like Shield-Crete’s, is slippery when wet. The anti-slip aggregate is a safety feature that we highly recommend for the final coat of Shield-Crete or Glaze Coat. Your floor will still be easy to clean.

No, the Deco-Flakes should be broadcast onto the wet epoxy as soon as possible. Work in 4-6 feet sections and toss the flakes in the air so they fall evenly onto the wet epoxy. Do not wait more than 30 minutes to apply the flakes, otherwise the Shield-Crete may start to dry and the flakes will not adhere as intended. Use Shield-Crete Glaze to protect the flakes and make surface easier to clean.

We highly recommend the use of Glaze Coat over all floors. This not only adds to the shine and life of the floor, it also makes cleaning even easier and protects the decorative flakes. When covering more than 25% of the floor, the clear Glaze Coat is recommended.

Filling the cracks may yield a smoother, more beautiful floor. A paintable caulk is appropriate for filling cracks. Be certain the caulk is fully cured before you apply the Shield-Crete. Use only enough caulk to fill the crack. Remove excess caulk.

No, Shield-Crete does not prevent cracking, however, the decorative flakes do a good job of camouflaging minor cracks and imperfections in the concrete.

Shield-Crete was designed for concrete and metal surfaces, but it will adhere to wood, much like a very good outdoor paint. Keep in mind, if the wood cracks, Shield-Crete will crack with it.

Shield-Crete can stand up to the heat of summer, the freezing in winter and rain year ‘round, however, one of the characteristics of epoxy is that it “chalks” in UV light. This means that the coating loses some of its luster due to direct sunlight. Apply Shield-Crete outdoors with this in mind. Application of Shield-Crete Clear Glaze will reduce the effects of chalking, but the color will continue to fade or slightly yellow.  Always use the anti-slip aggregate in outdoor settings that are likely to become wet.

Absolutely. Shield-Crete will not sag, so basements, storm shelters, wine vaults, etc. are ideal application areas. It is more stain resistant and much easier to clean than paint.

Unfortunately, you parked on the floor before it was fully cured and the stains may have been dried into the coatings. First try to clean the areas with a mild soap, water and a scrub brush. If this does not remove the stains satisfactorily, you will need to sand the affected areas and apply a new coat of Shield-Crete, flakes and glaze coat to these areas.