FAQs
Decorative Stains & Dyes
Infusion® Reactive Concrete Stains
What is an Acid Stain?
Acid Stain is not paint or a sealer. Acid Stain colors the concrete by creating a chemical reaction. A solution with acid, inorganic salts and water reacts with minerals that are already present in the concrete. This reaction creates color.
Can I use Acid Stain anywhere I want?
Acid Stain is not for every concrete floor. The concrete MUST be bare. There can be no sealers, curing compounds, bond breakers, paints, etc. on the surface. The surface must be clean and free of grease or any other contamination that would prevent the reaction from occurring.
Can Acid Stain be used on interior and exterior surfaces?
Yes. Some Acid Stain colors may be more sensitive to moisture and can not be used on the exterior. Verify the color being used is not moisture sensitive (see color chart for interior only colors).
Will the same color look the same on different jobs?
Even when the same color is used on different jobs, a different appearance will result. The color will be different for many reasons such as the different pour of the concrete, the texture of the concrete, the cure time and overall condition of the floor.
Can I intermix colors to create my own color?
Yes! Intermixing colors is common in the Acid Stain industry, this allows you to expand the color possibilities. Note: Always keep track of the “recipe” you have created just in case it needs to be recreated for repairs.
What is the most important step in my Acid Stain job?
Surface preparation is the most important step. If the surface is not thoroughly clean and free of all sealers.
Is it recommended to acid etch prior to acid staining?
No, acid etching will take away from the reaction of the acid stain which could result in less color penetration. There is vast difference between acid etching and staining.
Will acid stain react with the surface of the concrete?
In most cases the reactive ingredient in the concrete is, Hydrated Calcium (lime) which is not displaced evenly when the concrete is finished. In result, the acid reaction will naturally leave areas exposed, bare concrete which may look “bald”. The amount of “balding” will depend greatly on how the concrete is finished and the concentration of the acid stain mixture.
How deep does the acid stain react through the concrete surface?
Concrete thickness can vary from ¼” to over 3′. However, depending on the finish (how it was troweled) and porosity of the concrete surface, the penetration of the acid reaction may be only 1/16″ – 3/16″. In time if the surface is not maintained, the floor finish, sealer and color can be worn off exposing bare concrete areas. The use of the Industrial Floor Finish will not only bring up the sheen level and supply a buffable fresh looking surface, when maintained it will increase the overall life of the application.
How long should I allow the Acid Stain to sit on the surface before I remove the residue?
The Acid Stain should sit on the surface for at least 4 hours. You can let it sit longer. The longer you let it sit, the darker the color will be. It is common for the stain to sit overnight before the residue is removed.
I have applied the Acid Stain, removed the residue and I want the color to be darker, what can I do?
A second application of Acid Stain may be applied after the residue has been removed. This will provide a darker effect.
How do I dispose of the Infusion residue?
It all depends on your local municipality’s disposal requirements. It is corrosive, so you will have to research that prior to beginning installation. The county’s website should have the information you need.
Will a water-based sealer and a solvent-based sealer give the same appearance?
No. Solvent-Based sealers tend to make the colors beneath much bolder, darker and deeper. While the water-based sealers will not have that effect on the colors final appearance. *It is crucial to do a sample test area with the sealer to be sure the customer approves of the final color and appearance.
Do I always need to apply the Industrial Floor Finish after I apply a sealer?
The Industrial Floor Finish is designed for interior use only and should not be used on exterior jobs. On interior jobs, the Industrial Floor Finish will provide an ideal finish in high traffic areas such as schools, office buildings, shopping malls, hospitals, hotels and restaurants.
How do I keep my acid stained floor looking new?
Neutral – based cleaners are perfect for daily care on acid stained floors (regardless of the topcoat). DO NOT use ammonia – based cleaners on a daily basis, they will strip the sealer and color. For daily maintenance use a solution of 4-8 ounces of cleaner per gallon of water then apply with a damp mop. For heavily soiled areas a solution of up to 16 ounces per gallon of water is acceptable. *However, annual stripping of H&C Industrial Floor Finish should be done using an ammoniated cleaner. After the old finish is removed apply 2-3 coats of the floor finish. (Industrial Floor Finish can only be used on interior surfaces- but will be the best choice to keep interior floors looking fresh!)
Acetone Dye Stains
Can Acetone Dye Stain be applied outside?
No – The UV stabilization of each color is different ranging from months to years therefore dye is for interior use only.
Why does Acetone Dye Stain work better on smoother concrete surfaces in contrast to acid or water based stains?
A: The acid stain process is a chemical reaction that reacts with concrete. If the surface of the concrete is to slick and the pours are closed sometimes the acid stain reaction is weakened. B: Dyes are nano pigments and non reactive therefore on a smoother surface the dye will have no problem penetrating even smooth concrete surfaces. This is the reason Dye and not water-based stains are used in polished concrete. The dye will penetrate better than water-based stains. C: Water-based stains are using pigments that are larger than the dye pigments to achieve color. (Surface color)
Is Acid etching required before application of Acetone Dye Stain?
Not always, however some steel troweled surfaces will require acid etching to open the pores of the concrete. It is important to always perform a water test. If the surface does not rapidly absorb the water, than etching is required.
When diluting Acetone Dye Stain, what are the differences in using acetone vs. alcohol?
The dry time for alcohol is longer then acetone, but not by much. Using alcohol will result in more variation in color in contrast to using acetone.
Can you over dilute Acetone Dye Stain, i.e. 2 gallons of Acetone with 1 bottle of dye stain?
No, but the more the dye is diluted the lighter and more transparent the color will turn out.
Can you under dilute Acetone Dye Stain, i.e. 1 gallon of Acetone with 2 bottles of dye stain?
Yes, if the dye is under diluted some of the dye may not dissolve when mixing with acetone. The dye should be used as suggested for best results.
Will any pump-up sprayer work when applying Acetone Dye Stain?
No – The best sprayers to use for the dye application have to do two things.
1. The Sprayer needs to be designed for acetone and alcohol.
2. The sprayer needs to be able to achieve proper atomization. (Fine Mist Spray)
Examples – Pump sprayer that is designed for this application, or an HVPL sprayer, or an airless sprayer.
Does Acetone Dye Stain have to be sealed? If so, what types of sealers are compatible with Acetone Dye Stain?
Yes dyed floors should be sealed. You can use Acrylics, Urethanes, Epoxies, and Lithium Based Densifiers. Most coatings will go over dyes, but always do a sample area to check compatibility.
Can Acetone Dye Stain be used with Concrete Overlays?
Yes, this is very common. Always remember to have the contractor do a test to insure compatibility.
Can Acetone Dye Stain colors be intermixed?
Yes.
How long do I have to wait to seal after application of Acetone Dye Stain?
Floor must be completely dry from the residue removal process before application of any sealer. It should typically be applied 24 hours after the dye stain residue is removed. However, dry time can vary, so do a test area to insure floor is ready for sealer.
Can Acetone Dye Stain be used together with acid stains or water-based stains?
Yes – Complete the acid stain process then proceed with the dye or water-based stain application before a sealer is applied.
Semi-Transparent
Does INFUSION® Semi-Transparent Stain react with the concrete slab like acid stain?
No, Semi-Transparent Stain is a water-based penetrating micronized pigment.
Can Semi-Transparent Stain be applied outside?
Yes, all 16 colors are UV stable and should have a sealer applied.
Does Semi-Transparent Stain require a special pump up sprayer for application?
No, most pump-up sprayers are sufficient, Semi-Transparent Stain can also be applied with an Airless Sprayer or HVLP Sprayer.
Can two colors of Semi-Transparent Stain be mixed together creating a custom color?
Yes, multiple color of Semi-Transparent Stain can be combined to create custom blends.
What is the maximum dilution ratio for Semi-Transparent Stain?
Dilution of Semi-Transparent Stain doesn’t compromise the product, the more Semi-Transparent Stain is diluted lessens the color effect. We recommend the maximum dilution rate of 4:1.
Can I use Semi-Transparent Stain together with acid stains and acetone dye stains?
Yes, Semi-Transparent Stain can be used with Acid Stains & Acetone Dye Stains as long as concrete pores are sufficiently opened.
What are the benefits of using a water-based Semi-Transparent Stain over the traditional acid stain?
User-friendly, reduces installation time, doesn’t change chemical makeup of concrete (PH Levels); clean up with just soap and water.
Is it recommended to acid etch prior to application of Semi-Transparent Stain?
Concrete must be cured, cleaned, & profiled prior to Semi-Transparent Stain being applied. Mild acid wash might be necessary to achieve the profiled concrete. Surface should have the feel of 120 grit sandpaper.
Is there a residue that has to be removed after the Semi-Transparent Stain is dry?
No, if surface is flooded with Semi-Transparent Stain then it could show a residue that doesn’t have to be removed.
How long after application of Semi-Transparent Stain do I have to wait to seal?
When it is apparent that Semi-Transparent Stain is completely dry it is ready for a seal coat. This is typically 4-6 hours.
Does Semi-Transparent Stain have to be sealed? If so, what types of sealers are compatible with Semi-Transparent Stain?
Yes, Semi-Transparent Stain has to be sealed. There are no limitations to the compatible sealers that can be applied. Always perform a test area before entire application.
How do I maintain/clean my Semi-Transparent Stained floor?
Depends on what seal coating is used. Your sealer is your wear surface that takes all the abuse. Follow sealer instructions for maintenance.
Solid Color Stains & Sealers
How many coats of solid color stain/sealer are recommended?
Two coats are always recommended, applying the second coat perpendicular to the first coat.
What is the best solid color sealer for driving surfaces?
H&C Concrete Sealer Solid Color Solvent-Based Sealer will perform the best for vehicular traffic.
I live in OTC/LADCO states, what is my recommended solid color compliant sealer?
You have a couple options if you want to achieve the solid color look. You can use H&C Concrete Sealer Solid Color Solvent-Based or H&C Concrete Stain Solid Color Water-Based.
What causes bubbling of a sealer or stain, and what can I do to prevent and/or repair it?
1. In most cases moisture is the cause of bubbling of a solid color concrete stain or sealer. Always allow 24 hours of dry weather after rain before application.
2. Sometimes over application of solvent-based products can cause bubbling as well. Two thin coats are ideal versus one thick coat.
3. If the concrete is too hot at the time of application this can cause bubbling too. Do not apply if the surface temperature is over 100°F.
How do I solve the bubble issue?
For solvent based products, sand with a medium grit paper to knock down the bubbles (do not clean off sanding dust) then roll out a thin coat of xylene to re-wet the material. For water based products, sand using a medium grip (clean off sanding dust) then apply a new coat to cover the damaged areas.
Clears
How can I determine if my surface had a sealer applied in the past?
Simply performing the water-test: Sprinkle water in a few places to see if it beads. If the water beads there is some kind of sealer on your surface that should be removed. If the water penetrates into the concrete then you have a porous, bare surface. Please keep in mind that some concrete is finished to a very smooth dense troweled finish and may exhibit signs like there is a sealer present due to the non porosity of the surface.
What is the difference between Concrete Sealer Clear Gloss and H&C Wet Look Sealer?
Both products may be applied over our solid color stains/sealers or on bare concrete. The Wet Look Sealer is water-based and the Concrete Sealer Clear Gloss is oil/solvent-based. Mixing the two can result in product and or project failure. Water-based clears should be used with water-based solid stains and solvent-based clears over solvent-based solid sealers only. Water or solvent-based clear sealers can be used over H&C Decorative Stains & Dyes.
What clear coats can go over Infusion Acid Stain?
Any clear coat can go over the top of Infusion Reactive Acid Stain as long as the stain has been neutralized and the residue has been removed. Infusion offers a water-based and solvent-based clear topcoat as well as a floor finish for interior projects. While Infusion Sealers are the preferred method, other H&C sealers may be used. For heavy traffic interior surfaces, our High Performance Industrial clear would be an excellent choice.
What is the best method of application for the Infusion Industrial Floor Finish?
While the Industrial Floor Finish may be applied by brush, roller, or lambs wool applicator, the best method is to apply with a synthetic cotton-rayon mop. This applicator maximizes even coverage of material and produces a highly consistent sheen build.
With all the Sealers available in the H&C line, which is the best for application over the solid color water-based stain that is a low luster or satin finish?
Concrete Stain Water-Based Clear
What is the maximum allowable moisture content of the concrete before I can apply the H&C Sealer?
No higher than 12% moisture content
Seal coat is very cloudy, how do I fix this?
This is more than likely a result of moisture trapped underneath the sealer or if the clear coat was water based, this could be due to a heavy application.
I have a freshly poured concrete driveway and patio, how long do I need to wait until I can seal it?
You must wait 28 days after the concrete is poured. Although the concrete looks and feels ready to coat, it needs to “cure” and any coatings put down prematurely will most likely fail in one way, shape or form. H&C Clear Gloss can be used over freshly placed concrete as a cure and seal product. It complies with ASTM C309 Standard Specification for liquid membrane-forming compounds for curing concrete.
What is the difference in look between a water-based and solvent-based sealer?
Solvent-based sealers tend to make the colors beneath them much bolder, darker and deeper. While the water-based sealers will not have that same effect on the colors final appearance. This is why it is so crucial to do a sample test area with the sealer to be sure the customer approves the final color and appearance.
Concrete Resurfacers
Heavy Traffic
Will Heavy Traffic Resurfacer hold up to vehicle traffic?
Yes, this product is designed for vehicular traffic.
Can Heavy Traffic Resurfacer be applied in Northern part of the country where freezing weather will persist for months?
Yes, this product is designed to withstand freeze thaw conditions.
Will acid stain react with Heavy Traffic Resurfacer?
Yes, all stains will work with Heavy Traffic Resurfacer.
What is the maximum thickness of Heavy Traffic Resurfacer in a single placement?
Maximum thickness in a single placement is 1/8″.
Is Heavy Traffic Resurfacer compatible with oxide type colorants for integral coloring?
Yes.
Does Heavy Traffic Resurfacer require a liquid polymer to be added prior to installation?
No, Heavy Traffic Resurfacer is a single component mix requiring only water to be added.
Is it recommended to acid etch prior to acid staining?
No, acid etching will take away from the reaction of the acid stain which could result in less color penetration. There is vast difference between acid etching and staining.
Can Heavy Traffic Resurfacer be polished?
No.
Color Packs
Do I always have to use 1 color pack to one 50 lb bag mix? Can I use 2 color packs with one bag? What are my mix options?
Maximum load is 2 Color Packs per 50 lb bag.
Can the color packs be used with all H&C bag mixes?
Yes, Color Packs are designed to be used with most H&C bag mixes, however we do not suggest use with H&C Micro-Topping because the aggregate size is so fine that the materials do not blend well. Sometimes streaks can occur after the material is troweled out. Performance will not be compromised if color packs are used; however, the color appearance will not be as uniform as our other bagged good systems. Micro-Topping can be used with our Decorative Stains if color is desired.
Can I use the color packs with Broom Finish & Repair?
Yes, but please note that the end color will be slightly different from the Color Chart, because Broom Finish Repair uses a gray portland cement.
Can I use color packs with Quick Patch & Repair?
Yes, 20% of a Color Pack.
Broom Finish Repair
Will Broom Finish Repair hold up to vehicle traffic?
Yes, this product is designed for vehicular traffic.
Can Broom Finish Repair be applied in Northern part of the country where freezing weather will persist for months?
Yes, this product is designed to withstand freeze thaw conditions.
Does Broom Finish Repair have to be sealed?
Yes, the resurfacer should be sealed with an H&C sealer, please refer to product data page for more information.
Will acid stain react with Broom Finish Repair?
Yes, all stains will work with this product.
Why does Acetone Dye Stain work better on smoother concrete surfaces in contrast to acid or water based stains?
Yes, all stains will work with this product.
What is the maximum thickness of Broom Finish Repair in a single placement?
Maximum thickness in a single placement is 1/8″.
Is Broom Finish Repair compatible with oxide type colorants for integral coloring?
Yes.
Does Broom Finish Repair require a liquid polymer to be added prior to installation?
No, Broom Finish Repair is a single component mix requiring only water to be added.
Can Broom Finish Repair be polished?
No.
Quick Patch & Repair
Will Quick Patch & Repair fill cracks in concrete?
Quick Patch & Repair can be used to treat cracks up to 1″ wide.
Can Quick Patch & Repair be acid stained?
Yes, all stains will work with this product.
How long before Quick Patch & Repair can be walked on?
About 1-2 hours.
Is Quick Patch & Repair compatible with oxide type colorants for integral coloring?
Yes.
Does Quick Patch & Repair require a liquid polymer to be added prior to installation?
No, Quick Patch & Repair is a single component mix requiring only water to be added.
What is the maximum thickness of Quick Patch & Repair in a single placement?
Maximum thickness in a single placement is 1″.
Stampable Overlay
What is the maximum thickness Stampable Overlay can be place at?
Maximum thickness in a single placement is ½”
Can Stampable Overlay be integrally colored?
Yes, by adding 1 Color Pack per bag of Stampable Overlay.
How do you determine when the Overlay is ready to be stamped?
By gently pressing your fingers onto the Stampable Overlay surface, if you pull product onto your fingers give the product more time to setup, if you leave finger imprints and don’t pull product on your fingers the product is ready to stamp.
Can a powder release be used on Stampable Overlay?
No, H&C Liquid Release is the recommended release agent for Stampable Overlay.
What do I use as a release agent for the stamp?
Typically Liquid Release is used and recommended.
Can Liquid Release be tinted? If so, what type of colorant?
No, we don’t recommend tinting Liquid Release.
How long before I can stain and/or seal the overlay?
Typically the following day.
Will Stampable Overlay hold up to vehicular traffic?
Yes, this product is designed for vehicular traffic.
Will Stampable Overlay hold up to freeze /thaw cycles in the Northern climates?
Yes, this product is designed to withstand freeze thaw conditions.
Hardeners & Densifiers
Polishing Products
Why would I polish concrete instead of coating it with a high quality urethane or epoxy?
Polished concrete yields a highly durable low maintenance substrate without the possibility of peeling or delamination of a coating.
What makes polished concrete so durable?
Polished concrete gets its durability two ways, first a chemical reaction between the silica in the densifier/hardener and the Calcium Hydroxide in the concrete substrate. Secondly, the use of polishing equipment and high quality diamond imbedded resin pads create a smooth, hard non-porous surface.
Do I always have to use grinding and polishing equipment to use the densifier and protective finish?
No, densifiers can be used on any old or new porous concrete surfaces. Clear Liquid Hardener & Densifier is the most cost effective product on the market. It cost less per square foot to use than the least expensive densifier on the market. This is true because of our higher coverage rate, lower labor cost, and no disposal cost.
How do I know if my concrete is a good candidate for polish application?
The concrete has to be clean and free of any old coatings or sealers and porous. A dime size water drop should take 10-20 seconds to absorb into the surface. Polymer modified products such as self leveling floors do not benefit as much from the use of densifiers.
How do I know if the floor is polymer modified?
There are a couple of ways to determine if it is polymer modified. Polymer modified products dent fairly easily, they are also water soluble and dust.
What is the maintenance on a polished floor?
This really depends on the process and use of the floor. If Lithium Protective Finish is used in the process the maintenance would be scrubbing often with red pads on a scrubbing machine, using a neutral PH cleaner that does not contain butyls, ammonia, or citric acids. Burnishing with a high speed machine periodically. Re-apply the Lithium Protective Finish as needed based on wear.
What are the benefits of using silica’s vs. silicates and silicanates?
Silica’s and silicates cause permanent reactions inside the concrete to harden and close the pores of the concrete. The silicanates do the same thing but are much larger in size. The silica molecule is much smaller and the ability to penetrate is not hampered by the interfering ions of Na, K or Li. Most products on the market are a mixture of the 2-3 of the above chemistries. The Clear Liquid Hardener & Densifier has higher concentrations of silica molecules ready to react and penetrate than the other chemistries available from competitors.
Will there be a residue to remove and dispose of?
With the Clear Liquid Hardener & Densifier there may be some dust residue after the surface completely dries. This is just silica dust and can be vacuumed or scrubbed up and disposed of as prescribed in your area. It is not a hazardous material and the ph is not of a dangerous level.
Will densifying my floor create a water proof surface?
No. It can help reduce water penetration significantly but does not “water-proof.” In fact, it is a breathable surface that allows moisture to come through from below, so it won’t flake, peal, or delaminate over time.
Will a densified surface still be breathable?
If just densified, then yes it will still allow vapor to escape, while blocking most of the problem causing salts and minerals from forming on the surface and causing efflorescence.
I have a 10 year old concrete slab, will the densifier work on an old surface too?
With proper prep and cleaning you can see benefit from a Densifier even on old slabs being refurbished. Throughout the life of concrete, in most cases, there is enough free lime to react and see a benefit.
Do newly placed concrete slabs have to fully cure (28 days) before applying a Densifier?
This will depend on the process being done on the floor later in the construction or what the end use of the slab will be. Some densifiers can be applied at time of placement where others see problems and need to wait for at least the 3 days to cure. If polishing is planned for a new slab you will want to wait until during the polishing phase to use a densifier.
Is H&C Clear Liquid Hardener & Densifier a cure?
No. It is not a film forming membrane.
Do I have to strip the cure and seal prior to application of the H&C Clear Liquid Hardener & Densifier?
Yes. If water will penetrate into the slab then it can be hardened. If you are going to grind the floor aggressively then you may not need to strip the sealer prior to grinding.
My concrete floor often leaves a fine dust on the surface, will densifying eliminate this problem?
Densifiying will help solve this problem, but the floor will need to be examined to make sure that there isn’t a larger issue such as carbonation with the slab before knowing if just hardening the floor will fully treat the problem. Our products can eliminate some dusting by making the concrete harder and less prone to abrasion. Much of the dusting we see is actually environmental dirt that falls on the surface from tires, product, and air circulation. Sealers help make substrates easier to clean from this kind of dirt.
Does the densifier have a strong odor?
The densifier has a slight odor, but it should be minimal to the average user. The Lithium Protective Finish does have a stronger smell, but less so than a solvent.
Is the densifier harmful to plants and vegetation?
No, but contaminating vegetation or soils should be avoided.
How deep does the densifier penetrate?
This depends greatly on the surface preparation and type of concrete. It can be anywhere from 3mm-12mm.
Are multiple coats of the densifier required?
If applied correctly, one application is actually more beneficial than multiple applications of thinner coverage. If you allow the densifier to dry out you have caused the reaction and subsequent coats will no longer penetrate as deeply or evenly as the initial application has the opportunity to do. You should keep the surface wet with product for 20-30 minutes, applying more products to areas as needed or using a broom or mop to keep the product evenly distributed.
Can I incorporate color into the concrete when I am using H&C Clear Liquid Hardener & Densifier?
You can use an Acetone Dye Stain, Infusion Acid Stain or Semi-Transparent Stain when using the Hardener. Unlike other materials it does not have the tendency to lift the dyes out of the concrete. It also does not change the color of the concrete so it does not change the color of the stained floor. H&C Acetone Dye Stain is recommended when adding color for polished concrete applications.
At what point do I add color to the polishing process with H&C Acetone Dye Stain?
Typically color is added in the middle of the polishing process and is always added prior to the application of H&C Clear Liquid Hardener and Densifier. The best time to add color and densifier is before your last 3 polish resin diamond passes.
Will Clear Liquid Hardener & Densifier inhibit the ability of a coating to adhere to a floor?
No. H&C’s Clear Liquid Hardener & Densifier does not build a film or affect the surface of the slab. Unlike other concrete hardeners, H&C Clear Concrete Hardener does not produce sodium hydroxide so it will not cause coating failures.
Will the Clear Liquid Hardener & Densifier stop ASR?
No, but it will not contribute to ASR.
Does Clear Liquid Hardener & Densifier contribute to craze cracking and ASR?
No. Clear Liquid Hardener & Densifier does not contain sodium or potassium and does not increase the alkalinity of the slab or contribute to ASR. It will not contribute to surface sweating syndrome.
Do I have to rinse the product off the floor?
No. You can cut some time off of the clock by grinding your next step while the Concrete Hardener is still wet on the floor. You may want to check to make sure that your diamonds can be run wet. The additional heat will accelerate the chemical reaction and helps to seal the floor.
How long do I have to wait after I have applied the Concrete Hardener before I can start grinding again?
Keep the product wet for 30 minutes. Then start grinding.
Can I wait too long before I grind?
Yes. Do not allow the floor to react more than 24 hours before you grind it again. It can become too hard to cut.
When do I apply the H&C Lithium Protective Finish for polished concrete?
H&C Lithium Protective Finish is used as the final step for protection in a polished concrete system. While the floor after densifying is moisture resistant, it is not chemical resistant and requires the use of a protective sealer. By applying at least two coats of finish and burnishing each coat, it will fill the voids to chemically protect the floor from oil, grease, dirt, etc.
Do I have to use the Lithium Protective Finish?
If polishing, without the Lithium Protective Finish on the floor you are leaving the concrete open. Spills will most likely stain or etch the concrete instantly, where with the Lithium Protective Finish there is a window of time to clean most spills or contaminants up. The Lithium Protective Finish also conditions and hardens the floor to help protect the wear layer and extend the life.
Dry-Shake Color Hardener
Can Dry Shake-Color Release be used when stamping an overlay?
No, H&C Liquid Release is the recommended release agent for H&C Stampable Overlay.
When do you broadcast the Dry-Shake Color Hardener?
After the concrete has been bull floated and the bleed water has come to the surface.
What gives Dry-Shake Color Hardener the hardening capabilities?
Portland cement & aggregate size mainly increases the surface strength.
Can two different colors of Dry-Shake be used on the same slab?
Yes, there is no limit to the amount of colors that can be combined.
Can Dry-Shake Color Hardener be used as integral color for freshly poured slab?
No.
Dry-Shake Color Release
Can Dry Shake-Color Release be used when stamping an overlay?
I’d answer this as no and only suggest the liquid release. Powder Release can be used with Stampable Overlay, but because of the density of the Stampable Overlay the Powder Release may be difficult to rinse off. We do not recommend this.
How do you know when it is time to broadcast Dry-Shake Release?
When the concrete is firm enough to stamp.
Can Dry-Shake Color Release be used in conjunction with a liquid release?
No.
Should Dry-Shake Color Release be applied to the stamp and/or the slab?
It should be applied to both. Apply directly on the stamps and directly on the fresh concrete slab. Dry-Shake Color Release should be reapplied directly to the stamps periodically.
How long do I have to wait before the Dry-Shake Color Release can be cleaned from the surface?
Typically the following day.
Can Dry-Shake Color Release be power washed from the surface? What is the maximum PSI that should be used?
Yes with a mild power washer. Most experienced contractors mildly power wash with a fan tip not over 1500 PSI.
SharkGrip & Prep Products
How can I keep my floor, patio, pool deck, garage, etc from being slippery?
H&C recommends Sharkgrip Slip Resistant Additive for all surfaces where slipping is a concern. Pool decks and garage floors are especially susceptible to slipping. Simply stir Sharkgrip Slip Resistant Additive to any sealer or stain, it stays suspended in the coating, but occasional stirring is recommended. SharkGrip may make a gloss finish a bit duller, so keep that in mind. Shield-Crete kits have a packet of anti-slip aggregate included; simply stir this into the mixture once the two components have been combined.
How do I prepare my surface for stains and sealers?
Use H&C Cleaner Degreaser to remove grease and oil stains. It will increase the coating’s ability to bond with the surface by providing a clean substrate.
My surface is clean, but water is still beading, what do I do?
Use H&C Etching Solution to open the pores of the concrete so that H&C Stains and Sealers can bond properly with the substrate.
What products require acid etching?
It is always best to read the H&C product data page for surface preparation instructions.
Shield-Crete
Where else can Shield-Crete Epoxy be used besides garage floors?
Garage floors are just the beginning! Shield-Crete works great for basement floors, laundry room floors, commercial floors, warehouse floors, storage areas, covered patios and landings. It can be used in some full outdoor applications, however, the sun’s UV rays may diminish the gloss finish, as well fade the color over time.
My concrete is relatively new. Do I still need to clean the floor before applying Shield-Crete?
Yes. Construction dust, dry wall paste and paint splatters can affect the bond. Scrape foreign substances off the floor and then clean the floor with the degreaser/cleaner. Wire brushing or sanding may be needed for severe contamination.
How long do I have to wait to apply Shield-Crete to freshly poured concrete?
Because Shield-Crete is a water-based epoxy, it can be applied 28 days after the concrete is poured, however, the longer you can wait to let the concrete cure, the better your results will be.
Will Shield-Crete work on old concrete?
Absolutely. Of course, how well it works depends upon how well you prepare your concrete.
Do I have to remove old coatings or paint before I apply Shield-Crete?
Yes. When applied over a previous coating, Shield-Crete is only as good as what it is applied over. If the coating fails, it will take the Shield-Crete off with it. Also, Shield-Crete is a water-based product that breathes. The old coatings probably are not. Leaving them on could cause failure due to entrapment of moisture vapor in the concrete.
I have parked in my garage for some time. Do these areas have to receive special treatment before coating with Shield-Crete?
Yes. Tires contain chemicals that leach into the concrete over time. If too much of these foreign substances are trapped in the concrete, Shield-Crete will adhere to them and will not stick to the concrete. These areas should be scrubbed with a wire brush and the degreaser/cleaner, rinsed thoroughly and sanded with a rough sanding pad.
Is acid etching required before applying Shield-Crete?
If a floor is highly troweled and almost shiny then etching is necessary. Epoxies need to “bite” into the surface. If the surface is not porous the epoxy may then start to peel. Chemicals and paraffin from tires can leave a waxy film on garage floors over time which creates non-porous surfaces which may require at least one sanding.
I may have a clear sealer on my floor. How can I determine if I need extra surface preparation before applying Shield-Crete?
The easiest test is to sprinkle water on the questionable areas of your floor. If the water beads, you have a foreign substance that must be removed.
Can I apply multiple coats of Shield-Crete over a period of time?
Yes. Special surface preparation is not needed if the additional coats are applied within five days. If it has been a longer period, the area should be sanded lightly to dull the finish and create a rougher surface to which the Shield-Crete can adhere. In most cases, one coat of Shield-Crete is sufficient to produce great coverage and a rich finish. In some cases, where the concrete is exceptionally rough or old, two coats will provide a stronger, deeper finish. We always recommend two coats for dark colors, such as red. Second coats can be applied as soon as the surface is dry to the touch and not tacky.
Do I really need to include the anti-slip aggregate in the Shield-Crete or Glaze Coat?
Any coated surface, especially a high quality, smooth surface like Shield-Crete’s, is slippery when wet. The anti-slip aggregate is a safety feature that we highly recommend for the final coat of Shield-Crete or Glaze Coat. Your floor will still be easy to clean.
Should I stir the Deco-Flakes in with the epoxy?
No, the Deco-Flakes should be broadcast onto the wet epoxy as soon as possible. Work in 4-6 feet sections and toss the flakes in the air so they fall evenly onto the wet epoxy. Do not wait more than 30 minutes to apply the flakes, otherwise the Shield-Crete may start to dry and the flakes will not adhere as intended. Use Shield-Crete Glaze to protect the flakes and make surface easier to clean.
I am going to apply the decorative flakes. Should I apply a coat of Glaze Coat over the flakes?
We highly recommend the use of Glaze Coat over all floors. This not only adds to the shine and life of the floor, it also makes cleaning even easier and protects the decorative flakes. When covering more than 25% of the floor, the clear Glaze Coat is recommended.
I have some unsightly cracks in my floor. Should I fill these before applying Shield-Crete?
Filling the cracks may yield a smoother, more beautiful floor. A paintable caulk is appropriate for filling cracks. Be certain the caulk is fully cured before you apply the Shield-Crete. Use only enough caulk to fill the crack. Remove excess caulk.
Will Shield-Crete keep my floor from cracking in the future?
No, Shield-Crete does not prevent cracking, however, the decorative flakes do a good job of camouflaging minor cracks and imperfections in the concrete.
Can I apply Shield-Crete on wood?
Shield-Crete was designed for concrete and metal surfaces, but it will adhere to wood, much like a very good outdoor paint. Keep in mind, if the wood cracks, Shield-Crete will crack with it.
Can I use Shield-Crete on my patio, too?
Shield-Crete can stand up to the heat of summer, the freezing in winter and rain year ‘round, however, one of the characteristics of epoxy is that it “chalks” in UV light. This means that the coating loses some of its luster due to direct sunlight. Apply Shield-Crete outdoors with this in mind. Application of Shield-Crete Clear Glaze will reduce the effects of chalking, but the color will continue to fade or slightly yellow. Always use the anti-slip aggregate in outdoor settings that are likely to become wet.
Can Shield-Crete be applied to vertical surfaces, such as basement walls?
Absolutely. Shield-Crete will not sag, so basements, storm shelters, wine vaults, etc. are ideal application areas. It is more stain resistant and much easier to clean than paint.
A storm was brewing and I had to park on my new Shield-Crete floor one day after it was finished. My tires were dirty and they left stains and some of the coating came off the floor. How can I fix these areas?
Unfortunately, you parked on the floor before it was fully cured and the stains may have been dried into the coatings. First try to clean the areas with a mild soap, water and a scrub brush. If this does not remove the stains satisfactorily, you will need to sand the affected areas and apply a new coat of Shield-Crete, flakes and glaze coat to these areas.